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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

First car with black paint. Any tips to help maintain and keep it looking like new?

Live in Atlantic Canada, most likely won't take it "mudding" but maybe snow wheeling. Will wash weekly, if not bi-weekly.

Last car was white, before that grey - so relatively easy to take care of.
 

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Protect it from swirl marks. 1- learn how to 2 bucket wash on youtube, that’s the bare minimum
2- use good microfibers and mitts, like Car Pro washing gear
3- (optional) get a ceramic coating to help with swirl marks
4- (optional) blow your car dry when washing it

Swirl marks occur when you wipe gritty dirt on your paint, when driving but a lot when removing snow with a brush and when washing with grit in your mitt

You can also don’t care about swirl marks 😅 that would be more simple !
 

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Hi guys,

First car with black paint. Any tips to help maintain and keep it looking like new?

Live in Atlantic Canada, most likely won't take it "mudding" but maybe snow wheeling. Will wash weekly, if not bi-weekly.

Last car was white, before that grey - so relatively easy to take care of.
Did you get body colored fenders or no? My last Jeep didn’t have body colored fenders and after several years (I live in NE USA with snow) the fenders and bumpers faded. Every time I wash it now I use an Armor All protectant wipe and wipe down any black plastic part. I am hopingthis helps prevent the fading ( I also got body colored fenders this time)
 

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First, this is a losing battle. You can slow the process but you cannot prevent any paint from marring. You will just notice is more on black. Here are my comments:

1). PPF is best option but has drawbacks. It is expensive being the biggest con and the Wrangler doesn't allow for easy install. I only did my hood and windshield frame.
2). Ceramic coating will keep dirt off and allow easier cleaning. They will not reduce swirls per se but less dirt will help with less marring. I chose NV Evo.
3). Combine #1 and #2 is a great option but $$$
4). Wash method I use - people think I'm nuts but I enjoy the process.
  • Pre soak vehicle with rinse less wash (either ONR or Mckees) to losen grime and encapsulate the dirt. Some people like to use foam but I use rinseless because I can use in my garage in winter
  • Pre rinse with distilled water and pressure washer to get rid of most of the dirt. Distilled water doesn't leave waterspots, which can be your worst enemy if you have hard water like we do where I live. Far worse than swirls to remove in some cases
  • Spray vehicle with ONR or Mckees rinseless again using the waterless wash dilution - this is just for extra lubrication
  • Rinseless wash using Gary Dean method - 6+ high quality microfiber towels from the rag company, I use eagle edgeless.
  • Even though I use a rinseless, I still rinse with distilled water
  • Blow-dry with leaf blower. Vehicle is ceramic coated so this gets off 90%+ of the water
  • Get remains 10% off with a drying aid ( I use NV Boost) and a microfiber madness chipmunk drying towel. NV Boost helps bring back back the properties of my coating. Before I had the NV product line, I would use a spray sealant. Matt Moreman from Obsessed Garage just released his own product for this purpose.
 

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Did you get body colored fenders or no? My last Jeep didn’t have body colored fenders and after several years (I live in NE USA with snow) the fenders and bumpers faded. Every time I wash it now I use an Armor All protectant wipe and wipe down any black plastic part. I am hopingthis helps prevent the fading ( I also got body colored fenders this time)
Two comments:

1). You can restore the trim using a product called Solutions Finish, it works awesome. Used on my JK and lasts a long time. Much longer than Armor all.
2). You can also top it with a sealant they have or a ceramic coating. If you like coatings, there are also coating products from Gtechniq and Cerakote that restore the black and add years of protection. I have used Gtechniq C4 and it works great. The NV EVO coating I have on my 4xe also had a darken effect
when applied.

If you never used a coating, don't let them scare you. Especially on trim, they are super easy and last for years.
 

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First, this is a losing battle. You can slow the process but you cannot prevent any paint from marring. You will just notice is more on black. Here are my comments:

1). PPF is best option but has drawbacks. It is expensive being the biggest con and the Wrangler doesn't allow for easy install. I only did my hood and windshield frame.
2). Ceramic coating will keep dirt off and allow easier cleaning. They will not reduce swirls per se but less dirt will help with less marring. I chose NV Evo.
3). Combine #1 and #2 is a great option but $$$
4). Wash method I use - people think I'm nuts but I enjoy the process.
  • Pre soak vehicle with rinse less wash (either ONR or Mckees) to losen grime and encapsulate the dirt. Some people like to use foam but I use rinseless because I can use in my garage in winter
  • Pre rinse with distilled water and pressure washer to get rid of most of the dirt. Distilled water doesn't leave waterspots, which can be your worst enemy if you have hard water like we do where I live. Far worse than swirls to remove in some cases
  • Spray vehicle with ONR or Mckees rinseless again using the waterless wash dilution - this is just for extra lubrication
  • Rinseless wash using Gary Dean method - 6+ high quality microfiber towels from the rag company, I use eagle edgeless.
  • Even though I use a rinseless, I still rinse with distilled water
  • Blow-dry with leaf blower. Vehicle is ceramic coated so this gets off 90%+ of the water
  • Get remains 10% off with a drying aid ( I use NV Boost) and a microfiber madness chipmunk drying towel. NV Boost helps bring back back the properties of my coating. Before I had the NV product line, I would use a spray sealant. Matt Moreman from Obsessed Garage just released his own product for this purpose.
Can I just pay you to come was mine during the winter?, lol
 

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First, this is a losing battle. You can slow the process but you cannot prevent any paint from marring. You will just notice is more on black. Here are my comments:

1). PPF is best option but has drawbacks. It is expensive being the biggest con and the Wrangler doesn't allow for easy install. I only did my hood and windshield frame.
2). Ceramic coating will keep dirt off and allow easier cleaning. They will not reduce swirls per se but less dirt will help with less marring. I chose NV Evo.
3). Combine #1 and #2 is a great option but $$$
4). Wash method I use - people think I'm nuts but I enjoy the process.
  • Pre soak vehicle with rinse less wash (either ONR or Mckees) to losen grime and encapsulate the dirt. Some people like to use foam but I use rinseless because I can use in my garage in winter
  • Pre rinse with distilled water and pressure washer to get rid of most of the dirt. Distilled water doesn't leave waterspots, which can be your worst enemy if you have hard water like we do where I live. Far worse than swirls to remove in some cases
  • Spray vehicle with ONR or Mckees rinseless again using the waterless wash dilution - this is just for extra lubrication
  • Rinseless wash using Gary Dean method - 6+ high quality microfiber towels from the rag company, I use eagle edgeless.
  • Even though I use a rinseless, I still rinse with distilled water
  • Blow-dry with leaf blower. Vehicle is ceramic coated so this gets off 90%+ of the water
  • Get remains 10% off with a drying aid ( I use NV Boost) and a microfiber madness chipmunk drying towel. NV Boost helps bring back back the properties of my coating. Before I had the NV product line, I would use a spray sealant. Matt Moreman from Obsessed Garage just released his own product for this purpose.
I usually use a foam canon with ceramic wash. But that sounds like a good process.

Every few days I'll detail spray and wipe down the jeep. It goes surprisingly fast. Using the rinseless wash sounds like it would be too.

Costco has these packs of microfiber cloths that are great. After automotive use I recycle them to household duty. In the end I think I save more money overall on paper towels.
 

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Hi guys,

First car with black paint. Any tips to help maintain and keep it looking like new?

Live in Atlantic Canada, most likely won't take it "mudding" but maybe snow wheeling. Will wash weekly, if not bi-weekly.

Last car was white, before that grey - so relatively easy to take care of.
Ok here goes but it's gonna be a long reply! I'm a detailer by trade so I know wtf I'm talking about..
Summer:
1. Use a foam cannon on your pressure washer, soak the paint and let it dwell for 5 min, I use griots soap.
2. Rinse the foam WELL
3. Soap in the bucket should be a GOOD ceramic soap along with a high suddsing soap mix (ceramic soap is a great lubricator but doesn't suds up).
4. Have two buckets, one for rinsing and one for soap.
5. A chenille wash mitt or a REAL wool wash mitt. Start at the top of the door, do 3 passes, rinse, soap.. repeat..
6. Rinse the jeep really well
7. Use a drying aid ie.. hybrid graphene, or mckees37 ceramic detail spray.. 2 light sprays per panel (too much will leave streaking) then dry with a GOOD drying towel, I use griots towels, rag company, mckees37..
8. I also use a leaf blower to blow out the door hinges, handles...
Winter
Water is NOT a lubricant so if you go to a wash bay (pay station), I take a pump foam sprayer filled with a waterless wash, I soak the entire vehicle (waterless wash acts as a lubricant and will put itself between dirt and the paint). Then soap the vehicle then hose off. Believe it or not, dirt on the paint will scratch as you pressure wash it off! That's why I use a waterless or rinseless wash as a presoak.
Don't dry the vehicle in the winter unless you've actually washed it with a washmitt.
**** any towels, wash mitts, drying towels.. I wash after every use as they pick up contaminants and dirt and will be present the next time you go to use them and scrrrrratch. Always wash your towels, wash mitts in a scent free dye free detergent or buy a microfiber wash detergent. Always dry on really really low heat NO BOUNCE SHEETS IN THE DRYER! Or hang to dry is better.
For websites carzilla.ca eshine prodetailling supplies mckees37.com autogeek
Hope this helps! Congrats on the jeep
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok here goes but it's gonna be a long reply! I'm a detailer by trade so I know wtf I'm talking about..
Summer:
1. Use a foam cannon on your pressure washer, soak the paint and let it dwell for 5 min, I use griots soap.
2. Rinse the foam WELL
3. Soap in the bucket should be a GOOD ceramic soap along with a high suddsing soap mix (ceramic soap is a great lubricator but doesn't suds up).
4. Have two buckets, one for rinsing and one for soap.
5. A chenille wash mitt or a REAL wool wash mitt. Start at the top of the door, do 3 passes, rinse, soap.. repeat..
6. Rinse the jeep really well
7. Use a drying aid ie.. hybrid graphene, or mckees37 ceramic detail spray.. 2 light sprays per panel (too much will leave streaking) then dry with a GOOD drying towel, I use griots towels, rag company, mckees37..
8. I also use a leaf blower to blow out the door hinges, handles...
Winter
Water is NOT a lubricant so if you go to a wash bay (pay station), I take a pump foam sprayer filled with a waterless wash, I soak the entire vehicle (waterless wash acts as a lubricant and will put itself between dirt and the paint). Then soap the vehicle then hose off. Believe it or not, dirt on the paint will scratch as you pressure wash it off! That's why I use a waterless or rinseless wash as a presoak.
Don't dry the vehicle in the winter unless you've actually washed it with a washmitt.
**** any towels, wash mitts, drying towels.. I wash after every use as they pick up contaminants and dirt and will be present the next time you go to use them and scrrrrratch. Always wash your towels, wash mitts in a scent free dye free detergent or buy a microfiber wash detergent. Always dry on really really low heat NO BOUNCE SHEETS IN THE DRYER! Or hang to dry is better.
For websites carzilla.ca eshine prodetailling supplies mckees37.com autogeek
Hope this helps! Congrats on the jeep
Oh this is amazing... thank you so much!

As for paint protection film, being a detailer, any recommendations for where to put it? I was thinking getting it on the front grill and also the front fenders (on rear by default) and getting a hood deflector for the hood.
 

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Oh this is amazing... thank you so much!

As for paint protection film, being a detailer, any recommendations for where to put it? I was thinking getting it on the front grill and also the front fenders (on rear by default) and getting a hood deflector for the hood.
I'd say the front of the front and rear fender flares, front bumper and first 1/4 of the hood. I wrapped my whole hood in matte black, looks awesome, will protect the paint..
 

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Getting air deflector on Monday for the hood, so I think I'll skip film underneath but will do the rest. Thanks again!
Air deflectors are jeeps are bad news bud. Because the windshield is so vertical on wranglers, anything that would hit the deflector will most likely hot the windshield, so more prone to chips, cracks... I'd wrap the front portion with ppf. It's easy to do yourself just take off your hood closures and you're good. Its a wet application so simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Air deflectors are jeeps are bad news bud. Because the windshield is so vertical on wranglers, anything that would hit the deflector will most likely hot the windshield, so more prone to chips, cracks... I'd wrap the front portion with ppf. It's easy to do yourself just take off your hood closures and you're good. Its a wet application so simple.
Really? Damn. Jeep won't let me return it. I've been extra careful to stay 3-4 car lengths behind other cars and stuff, so hopefully that helps. I'm not the best with a steady hand for that kind of stuff... but I think the deflector is not bolt on, it goes into fasteners so if I end up wrecking a windshield fast I'll just remove it and get the PPF put on then.

Do you think I should get PPF put onto the bezel /frame of the windshield? @gman21
 

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Really? Damn. Jeep won't let me return it. I've been extra careful to stay 3-4 car lengths behind other cars and stuff, so hopefully that helps. I'm not the best with a steady hand for that kind of stuff... but I think the deflector is not bolt on, it goes into fasteners so if I end up wrecking a windshield fast I'll just remove it and get the PPF put on then.

Do you think I should get PPF put onto the bezel /frame of the windshield? @gman21
You could but if you can't do the hood you won't be able to do the window frame and you'd have to use a huge piece just to do the frame. See how the deflector works
 
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