Jeep Wrangler 4xe Forum banner

4xe Jump Start Procedure

24K views 43 replies 7 participants last post by  Yawnie'sPapa  
Alright. After like 3 tow services rejected the job, one finally showed up that was competent.
  • 3000A jump pack didn't do anything
  • Measured at 4V
  • Manual neutral engaged and rolled out of garage
  • Loaded onto flatbed and towed to dealer
I gotta be honest. I knew Jeep wasn't the most reliable brand, but I didn't imagine it would be this unreliable. I got stuff to do, and I've realized I'm okay shelling out more money for a more reliable vehicle. Purchase cost, gas, or maintenance - take my money.
This is really a crappy scenario.
All of this headache, heartbreak, Blood, Sweat and Tears along with the financial hit.
All of this for a dead battery.
What Jeep will do is replace the battery with the same crappy OEM battery and maybe you'll get lucky and it will work.
It seems unlikely that you are going to work on your vehicle, some people are mechanically inclined and others are not. There's nothing good or bad about either way however if you're not a mechanically inclined individual, my advice is find a mechanic who is good, honest and reliable. They are still out there, a honest mobile Mechanic. Then pay them to install a Odyssey AGM battery and be done with it.
 
I definitely wouldn't do one end, but all 4 lifted would be fine. I wouldn't be concerned with a tow truck lifting one axles and the other axle on wheel lifts to get it out of a garage personally. You just don't want it putting stress on the driveline.
Yes sir,
I believe we are all in agreement and on the same page.
A four-wheel drive vehicle should never be moved with one axle in the air and the other being drug on the ground. It is okay to move the four-wheel drive vehicle with one axle in the air and the other axle having dollies underneath the wheels.

So many different ways to word the same thing, and I definitely could have worded my response better.
 
OK I'm going to say the tow driver didn't know what he was doing enough to release the neutral strap.
Yeah that's kind of what it sounds like.
All of this factors into the frustration level when dealing with dealerships. They are just looking for the absolute cheapest person that they could find. No skills are required or needed, these are the people that are handling what is potentially your second largest purchase you'll ever make in your life.
I poke fun at dealership mechanics, usually I say that they just got fired from McDonald's because they kept burning the french fries, the problem here is this guy couldn't even get a job at McDonald's and he's handling your very expensive car.
He could not accomplish a very elementary task, and yet he's trusted to transport your vehicle across town, this just doesn't make any sense.
My apologies, rant over.
 
He was messing with the driver-side left kick panel. I popped it open just now and there's a big read coin-slot cap sitting in the locked position. Does that thing just need to be turned to unlock?

A little concerned about this in the manual:
Front or rear wheel lifts must not be used (if the remaining wheels are on the ground). Internal damage to the transmission or transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel lift is used when towing. Towing this vehicle in violation of the above requirements can cause severe transmission and/or transfer case damage. Damage from improper towing is not covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

But it should be fine to use wheel lifts to get it out of the garage and then put it on a flatbed?
So as far as lifting up one end and dragging the other on a four-wheel drive vehicle, I myself would not allow that. I know that @Clutch Auto Deals is extremely smart and knowledgeable when it comes to this, so maybe it's okay. But if it was my vehicle, I would definitely make sure it was in neutral. There should not be any reason why that vehicle could not be put in neutral with the neutral strap.
 
He was messing with the driver-side left kick panel. I popped it open just now and there's a big read coin-slot cap sitting in the locked position. Does that thing just need to be turned to unlock?

A little concerned about this in the manual:
Front or rear wheel lifts must not be used (if the remaining wheels are on the ground). Internal damage to the transmission or transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel lift is used when towing. Towing this vehicle in violation of the above requirements can cause severe transmission and/or transfer case damage. Damage from improper towing is not covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

But it should be fine to use wheel lifts to get it out of the garage and then put it on a flatbed?
In order to put it into neutral you turn that coin slot to the unlocked position, then you pull on it.
It is attached to a cable and that will put your vehicle in neutral.
Please be careful, once you pull that, your vehicle will be in neutral and it potentially could roll away.
 
Given my capabilities, I would probably blow 3x normal hours required to install the battery and then it would still wind up at the dealer anyway. :D

The flatbed tow truck showed up this morning and was unable to get it into neutral to roll it out. So now I have to wait until tomorrow afternoon (schedule reasons) to get a wheel lift service. :rolleyes:

Interestingly, the guy who came out connected a 1400a booster to it and the readout said ~11V. So either something is wrong with the Schumacher 6V/12V charger unit (it's saying it's a 6V battery and starting out at ~3.3V), or the battery is so dorked that it's messing with the Schumacher's ability to read the battery voltage. Thinking I should return it. Votes on whether the unit is faulty?
Well first thing is to know your limitations LOL.

I would love to be able to talk to the flatbed driver and ask why he was not able to get the vehicle in the neutral, it's a pretty easy process.
Do you have any idea whether he was able to release the parking brake?
Do you know if he was able to locate the neutral pull strap? Or did he locate it and was not able to pull it? I am just really curious.
As far as the battery charger, I would probably get a third opinion LOL.
Maybe at some point somebody else will be able to check the battery and figure out what the voltage is. It's unlikely that a good quality charger is defective from the start but stranger things have happened.
 
Three words as to "why not": WARRANTY, PRINCIPAL, DOLLARS
It's under warranty, I'll be @$#$% if I'm going to pay for (and install) a battery they owe me.
It's their job to replace it (I'm a retired long-time auto mechanic, so this would be an easy fix if it wasn't for the above)
It's the principal of the thing - why should I do what they should be doing, spend extra out of pocket dollars?
It's a Jeep defect they need to deal with and if I took care of it myself, then they'd have one less complaint, one less record and one less reason to move forward with fixes. That's why any time there's a defect or warranty issue, make sure it gets reported, make sure Jeep engineering, STAR, whoever, knows of it. You may be helping the next Jeep owner toward a solution. It's not to be mean, it's the way the system works. No complaints, gee, nothing to fix.

Of course, I have it easy - the experience and training and all of the needed equipment, I could drag the beast onto my tilt-bed car hauler and tow it to their dealership and nicely drop it off in a spot that's inconvenient for them so they would have to move it in a short time.

When the batteries in my wife's 2018 WK2 failed, trust me, I did everything necessary to get it started and drove it myself (so she'd not have to deal with it) to the dealership. They were really nice about it and put in two new batteries in short order (I was nice about it, too......... explained exactly how it behaved, or misbehaved)

If this one in question was mine - with very low miles, it would get dragged or driven to the dealership and I'd not take it back until they could prove the whole issue was resolved. I have back and forth - anyone wanting evidence of that look at my 4xe transmission leak issue from last year - I don't put up with incompetence or ignorance, no patience for it)
Wow.
Take a breath.
My very first sentence was, "my apologies if I missed something" and I was just trying to offer a little bit of help I didn't realize you had a four paragraph lecture holstered and ready to go LOL.

I understand if that's how you feel that's how you feel, and I'm not here to talk you out of it.
I see it often on multiple social media platforms. The car is under warranty and individuals feel like the dealership or the manufacturer owes them and will fight for months over a $300 battery or any one of many things.
And once again if anybody wants to send multiple emails and phone calls and spend months trying to right a wrong more power to them.
I'm just offering my perspective, which no doubt what you will say is wrong lol, but my perspective is, I will just order a new battery, install it myself and be done with it.
In the last couple years I've had one Dodge and one Grand Cherokee that the batteries went bad. They were still under warranty but I just purchased a Odyssey AGM and installed them both myself. I feel like it's just easier and much less frustrating. Of course I feel like dealerships are the most incompetent businesses on Earth.

Long ago I used to get frustrated a lot. I learned to put a dollar value on the frustration.
And along with that, I put a dollar value for the time spent on that frustration. If I put that together with how much I feel my time is worth, it changed my perspective on a lot of things.
Of course this is going to be different for everybody.

If somebody gave me a choice to be frustrated or pissed off for a few days trying to get something like a battery fixed. Multiple phone calls to the dealership, emails arranging to get a car towed, arranging a ride to the dealership. Also knowing that even if they did replace the battery it's going to be replaced with the same crappy battery that they took out. So this means always being concerned that the same OEM battery will fail in short order. Along with all the other problems that go along with that.
Or just pay $350 and it's done, it will never will cross my mind again.

I'm going to pay the $350 and be done with it.

Once again, that's just me, I'm not saying that anybody else should do that. I don't particularly care to see the four or five paragraph essay that I won't read anyway.
I'm just offering a different perspective.
 
According to this thread, the battery is in the trunk under the spare.


Vehicle is backed into the garage bay (only way I can get in due to geometry of the driveway).

Dealer says there’s a manual parking brake release so good there.
Roger that, I could see where that would be a bit of a issue but like you said, good news is there is a manual release for the parking brake. There is also a neutral pull strap so you will be able to at least move it away from the garage wall.
 
My apologies everybody if I'm missing something in this thread. It seems like there's a dead 12 volt battery, and we're trying to figure out how to get the car out of the garage to get it to the dealer to put in a new battery.
If that sums it up, why don't we just put in a new battery. My wife has a 21 Grand Cherokee Trackhawk, the 12 volt battery is underneath the passenger front seat. I recently replaced that with a Odyssey AGM battery and while it was a bit of a pain in the rear, it's doable.
Even if the owner is not mechanically inclined, I think it would be easier to call a mobile mechanic or one of those battery services that come out to replace the battery. I guess what I'm getting at is, wouldn't it be easier just to replace the battery where it is since it needs to be replaced anyway?