[michail]

I've been using only electric mode for a while. I figured I would use hybrid for a bit to stress test my 4xe, given all the issues being reported.

Something I've noticed is the first time the engine comes on is somewhere around or after 96% when I am slowing down or coming to a stop. This is counter to when the engine usually comes on in hybrid operation. Do any of you notice this? I'm not sure what's goin on other than perhaps an engine warmup.

I've had two identical trips and the engine came on at the exact same spot both times.

 

[Wrangler4XEFan]

I've never had mine turn on during deceleration. In fact, it's usually the opposite. Mine usually shuts off during deceleration.

 

[michail]

I was driving easy, so that might have something to do with it. The fact it happened in the exact same spot got me wondering. But I've noticed a couple other times the same thing happening. Always while slowing down and coming to a stop. It didn't make any sense to me as to why it was turning on at those moments when little power was needed. If I stop for a few minutes and drive again it doesn't seem to happen.

It might just be a little maintenance thing to flow the oil and warm the engine. In that case it makes sense as it might be using regenerative energy to start the motor for free and let it run without load.

See if you can drive easy in hybrid until you get to 96% or under. I don't think it would make a good video though, lol.

 

[NachoJeep]

yeah break that sucker in! The owner's manual even confirmed something I've always believed in... that going WOT during breakin period is a GOOD THING. Helps seat the piston rings and cross hatch the cylinder walls. I learned that back in my BMW days, the whole idea "drive super gentle and don't go over 3k RPMs the first 1k miles" is nonsense and outdated. Machine tolerances are so much tighter in modern cars what you really need is an italian tuneup while the engine is new.

Of course only do this after engine is FULLY warmed up, never go WOT while cold thats bad no matter how many miles you have.

But once its warm even if it only has 50 miles on the odometer go find a nice long hill and buildup that cylinder temp

 

[DewHawk]

Sorry to resurrect this post but I felt it was ideal rather than starting a new one.
I just crossed 100 miles out of my 300 and while I've been trying to follow the 'rules' as much as possible (up to 50 mph for the first 60 miles, 50-55 after...if that's even how it's supposed to be translated) I've noticed the engine has probably run a grand total of 15 miles during this whole period. Having broken in a brand new Hellcat and WK2 Hemi prior to this, I'm starting to have some concern over getting the engine properly bedded in (piston rings, seals, etc) so I've started playing with different settings to force the engine into life. The last several drives have done have been almost 100% electric only (it's amazing how much that battery can actually handle for day to day tasks without ever needing to run the engine). Anyone else here been forcing the engine in to run with manual mode on the trans? I figure at least I'll have some control over getting variable RPM's worked into the mix that way. Like Nacho mentioned above, I too have had a few BMW's in the past and they have always recommended to drive the car as it's intended to keep the motor fresh and happy. I'm not babying my new beast since the axles and diffs should be past the point of concern for initial break in.

 

[michail]

I think my original topic got confused some.

I was mentioning there is something in the hybrid software programming that will run the engine under no/low load situations to get it warmed up. Such as you are driving 45 mph for a few minutes and then start to come to a stop or slow down.

However, this may be similar to the break in period as the computers are trying to run the engine without it coming on already under load.

It can get irritating if you are trying to go 100% electric. This doesn't happen if electric mode is on, only in hybrid setting.

 

[lilred7879]

Sorry to resurrect this post but I felt it was ideal rather than starting a new one.
I just crossed 100 miles out of my 300 and while I've been trying to follow the 'rules' as much as possible (up to 50 mph for the first 60 miles, 50-55 after...if that's even how it's supposed to be translated) I've noticed the engine has probably run a grand total of 15 miles during this whole period. Having broken in a brand new Hellcat and WK2 Hemi prior to this, I'm starting to have some concern over getting the engine properly bedded in (piston rings, seals, etc) so I've started playing with different settings to force the engine into life. The last several drives have done have been almost 100% electric only (it's amazing how much that battery can actually handle for day to day tasks without ever needing to run the engine). Anyone else here been forcing the engine in to run with manual mode on the trans? I figure at least I'll have some control over getting variable RPM's worked into the mix that way. Like Nacho mentioned above, I too have had a few BMW's in the past and they have always recommended to drive the car as it's intended to keep the motor fresh and happy. I'm not babying my new beast since the axles and diffs should be past the point of concern for initial break in.

I believe if you put it in E-save/Charge mode the ICE will run all the time - that should get you the break in miles you are after.

 

[DewHawk]

I believe if you put it in E-save/Charge mode the ICE will run all the time - that should get you the break in miles you are after.

Strangely, I’ve found it’s actually very dependent on what your charge level is so far. E-Save simply does not want to start the ICE until I’m below 95% charge regardless of which save mode I’m using. Not sure if that’s related to the 300 mile break in or not (would be a hell of a way to program a restrictor if that’s what they did) but so far I’ve had to keep it in manual shift mode to force the ICE on.

and before anyone asks, no codes, no idiot lights, etc. everything is working 100% as advertised.

 

[lilred7879]

Strangely, I’ve found it’s actually very dependent on what your charge level is so far. E-Save simply does not want to start the ICE until I’m below 95% charge regardless of which save mode I’m using. Not sure if that’s related to the 300 mile break in or not (would be a hell of a way to program a restrictor if that’s what they did) but so far I’ve had to keep it in manual shift mode to force the ICE on.

and before anyone asks, no codes, no idiot lights, etc. everything is working 100% as advertised.

I would bet you are correct - I really never noticed at the high of a battery charged amount. But I have heard the same is true of Max-Regen. The Charging system sees the battery as "full" and does not activate since these is no place for the charge to go.

 

[michail]

The 95% mark may be where it chooses to start the engine for a preemptive warm up. I didn't think of that!

I suspect it has to do with charging efficiency. Above 95% it becomes much more resistant to taking a charge. And braking regeneration is also more difficult.

 

[DewHawk]

The 95% mark may be where it chooses to start the engine for a preemptive warm up. I didn't think of that!

I suspect it has to do with charging efficiency. Above 95% it becomes much more resistant to taking a charge. And braking regeneration is also more difficult.

I literally watched my battery gauge go from 85% to 95% just running in E-Save Store mode tonight while running around. It's pretty incredible just how much energy this thing can recover all on its own under normal driving conditions in traffic. I'd go as far as to say TFL needs to rethink their whole stance on this platform with the "there's no such thing as a free lunch" BS and knocking it's ability to recover energy. My experience has been the exact opposite of theirs.

That all being said, it got me thinking tonight about the whole hybrid supplement book that comes with the owners manual. With all the testing and miles they put on this platform before going to production, why the hell didn't they at least put some extra "advisories" in for Break In regarding the hybrid powertrain? Someone had to have thought that at least one of us was going to hit 300 miles without running the engine for more than something like 60, right? I'd like to think the 2.0L is fairly robust at this point but not to the extent that I would trust less than 300 miles of proper bedding/running in to be ready to handle hard acceleration when needed from the stab of your right foot.

Am I weird or has anyone else considered this?

 

[JakeK66]

I literally watched my battery gauge go from 85% to 95% just running in E-Save Store mode tonight while running around. It's pretty incredible just how much energy this thing can recover all on its own under normal driving conditions in traffic. I'd go as far as to say TFL needs to rethink their whole stance on this platform with the "there's no such thing as a free lunch" BS and knocking it's ability to recover energy. My experience has been the exact opposite of theirs.

That all being said, it got me thinking tonight about the whole hybrid supplement book that comes with the owners manual. With all the testing and miles they put on this platform before going to production, why the hell didn't they at least put some extra "advisories" in for Break In regarding the hybrid powertrain? Someone had to have thought that at least one of us was going to hit 300 miles without running the engine for more than something like 60, right? I'd like to think the 2.0L is fairly robust at this point but not to the extent that I would trust less than 300 miles of proper bedding/running in to be ready to handle hard acceleration when needed from the stab of your right foot.

Am I weird or has anyone else considered this?

I'd just run the battery down and run in E-Save w/AC on for a week or two. Engine will still shut off at stops/decelerating but be on for most of the miles. I noticed it too when my battery was 50%+ the esave mode still has the engine off quite a bit but once it got down to ~10% the engine started staying on consistently.