As of right now.
Above, I am working on a switch that will just turn that fuse off vs having to pop the fuse panel open each time.
Low speed warning sound is terrible.
I agree with a moving, potentially silent car making a noise to warn pedestrians. No problem. What I can't stand is the noise my JGC makes when doing this. The chosen noise sounds like brakes dragging or some mechanical failure.
Are you OK with the concept of a noisemaker?
Are you fond of the sound they chose?
Years ago I found a (probably fake) video of an electric car that made the Jetson's vehicle sound at low speed. The sound modified in rate as the car sped up and slowed down. In spite of being clownish, I would pick THAT over the dragging brake shoe sound we are stuck with.
Are you OK with the concept of a noisemaker?
Are you fond of the sound they chose?
Years ago I found a (probably fake) video of an electric car that made the Jetson's vehicle sound at low speed. The sound modified in rate as the car sped up and slowed down. In spite of being clownish, I would pick THAT over the dragging brake shoe sound we are stuck with.
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Above, I am working on a switch that will just turn that fuse off vs having to pop the fuse panel open each time.
I will add, my eventual goal will be to try and wire something up that will reset it self to on after the car is turned off and then back on again.
Kind of like this setup on the Wrangler:
Since we don't have the Aux switches and control of having the individual button behave a certain way, it's going to take a little more thinking.
Kind of like this setup on the Wrangler:
Since we don't have the Aux switches and control of having the individual button behave a certain way, it's going to take a little more thinking.
First world problems require first world solutions... throwing the speakers in the trash bin. Sorry, I mean the recycling bin.Why ? You don't like it.. close the windows and you will not hear it. Or as you mentioned run the ICE. It's a safety feature. 1st World problem it seems.
Work in progess...
I was able to put together my little bypass switch this morning. I will be able to test it when I get home and install it. If all goes well, I will drill a hole in the panel door and install the switch. This will allow a simple rocker switch to turn the PWS on and off by just reaching into the rear and flipping it. Continuity was checked with a voltmeter and seems to work as intended.
View attachment 10518
Ignore the black vs red wiring. The quick connects I had access to were all this and I didn't want to re-pin the black wire. The whole thing is just one big extension to disconnect the fuse circuit.
The blue fuse you see in the slot is just a placeholder to test the switch and continuity. The fuse in the panel, I believe, is ayellowRed 10-amp fuse.
Worst case, even after the hole is drilled, I can pull everything out and get a knockout plug to fill the hole and replace the original fuse.
I will take a video and pictures once everything is in place.
Ignore this for now. Back to the drawing board and I should have paid closer attention... It is a micro3 fuse. I need to adjust how to isolate the three legs of the fuse.
That is certainly the simplest solution.That makes sense. So only solution then is to pull the fuse it seems ?
If you need something to tell you your about to run over a pedestrian leave your business at home and learn how to focus on just driving the 2-1/2 ton vehicle!!!! DaI'd say running over someone is worse than a warranty issue. There's a reason for every warning out there.
It warns the pedestrians not the driver.If you need something to tell you your about to run over a pedestrian leave your business at home and learn how to focus on just driving the 2-1/2 ton vehicle!!!! Da
I cannot count the number of people I've met who don't look carefully before stepping into a road, because they can hear if a vehicle is coming.If you need something to tell you your about to run over a pedestrian leave your business at home and learn how to focus on just driving the 2-1/2 ton vehicle!!!! Da
I found where the speaker is on my 22 GC Overland and disconnected it, took literally 4 minutes, There are 2 of them. One for forward and one for reverse. I disconnected the forward (left the reverse) and installed a toggle switch. In heavy public populated areas I flip it on. Otherwise I roll in complete silence. (forward)I agree with a moving, potentially silent car making a noise to warn pedestrians. No problem. What I can't stand is the noise my JGC makes when doing this. The chosen noise sounds like brakes dragging or some mechanical failure.
Are you OK with the concept of a noisemaker?
Are you fond of the sound they chose?
Years ago I found a (probably fake) video of an electric car that made the Jetson's vehicle sound at low speed. The sound modified in rate as the car sped up and slowed down. In spite of being clownish, I would pick THAT over the dragging brake shoe sound we are stuck with.
I wouldn't personally want to disable it but replace it with something else. For example:
or maybe my favorite:
Paul
or maybe my favorite:
Paul
Totally agree Paul. A sound that didn’t sound like worn out brakes would be much better. That’s why I installed the switch. 80% of the time I hear it is mostly in “safer” areas that do not need a pedestrian warning.I wouldn't personally want to disable it but replace it with something else. For example:
or maybe my favorite:
Paul
So I have to make a correction to this post I made before.The noise is awful. I disconnected and completely removed the two speakers from my Jeep, and just run the ICE whenever I'm driving slowly near people. Apparently if you pull the fuse, it'll trigger some internal error code (but without any dash indicators), I don't think there's any consequence to having that error code but just to be on the safe side I removed the speakers instead, which does not trigger the error code. At the very least, it'll prevent dealers from replacing the fuse to clear the code (and charging me for it, of course) every time I take it in for an oil change. They're very unlikely to notice or care if my speakers are missing.
Jeep should have, at the very least, given us a setting to disable the speakers when the transfer case is in 4-low. That god awful brake grinding noise ruins the whole "silent offroading" experience.
Disconnecting the speakers (and leaving the fuse in) DOES trigger an error code in the system. I used Jscan for the first time today and it clearly had an error code for "pedestrian warning system not found". So contrary to what I posted before, there does not seem to be any way to disable the PWS without triggering an error, I was misinformed from another post I read in an older thread. I looked to see if I could just disable the PWS body module with JScan but that doesn't appear to be an option at this time.
However, as I wrote before, there does not seem do be any consequence to having this error code, except that it alerts the dealer to that fact that you've disabled PWS. Otherwise it doesn't have any noticeable effect, no CEL or anything like that.
Does the code self clear once the fuse is placed back in or does it stay logged and active until it is cleared?However, as I wrote before, there does not seem do be any consequence to having this error code, except that it alerts the dealer to that fact that you've disabled PWS. Otherwise it doesn't have any noticeable effect, no CEL or anything like that.
I've figure out the wiring and the switch setup to activate and deactivate by just a switch, even with a Micro3 fuse setup. I'm just waiting on one more part to come in that will prevent it from looking like a complete jungle over the fuse panel (behind the door)
Basically split the micro3 fuse out to seperate 10amp fuses that share the hot (middle) leg. When plugging in the fuse to the slot, the bottom leg is the one that controls the Pedestrian warning sound.
Switch to off and the speaker stops.
I've got the speakers, themselves, removed from the vehicle and sitting in a drawer somewhere, so I won't be able to test it to answer your question unless I put the speakers back in. But, either way, clearing the code (if it does persist after reconnecting the fuse) is easy with Jscan.Does the code self clear once the fuse is placed back in or does it stay logged and active until it is cleared?
I've figure out the wiring and the switch setup to activate and deactivate by just a switch, even with a Micro3 fuse setup. I'm just waiting on one more part to come in that will prevent it from looking like a complete jungle over the fuse panel (behind the door) View attachment 10528
Basically split the micro3 fuse out to seperate 10amp fuses that share the hot (middle) leg. When plugging in the fuse to the slot, the bottom leg is the one that controls the Pedestrian warning sound.
Switch to off and the speaker stops.
The speakers for the GC are a little harder to get to and from my understanding, JScan hasn't been updated yet to work on the WL.I've got the speakers, themselves, removed from the vehicle and sitting in a drawer somewhere, so I won't be able to test it to answer your question unless I put the speakers back in. But, either way, clearing the code (if it does persist after reconnecting the fuse) is easy with Jscan.
I do wish we had aux switches like the Wranglers so I could wire up a switch similar to what Wrangler4xeFans did.
I might still try and work out some kind of remote relay.
I forgot which forum I was in haha, I did own a non-4xe GC wk2 before though, so I have some experience with remote relay switch installation in them. Check out this product, it's fantastic and super inexpensive. It even programmable in more ways than the Wrangler aux switches, for example you can program it to stay on for a certain period of time then turn off. I used these remote relay boxes for all my lighting and air compressor in my GC:The speakers for the GC are a little harder to get to and from my understanding, JScan hasn't been updated yet to work on the WL.
I do wish we had aux switches like the Wranglers so I could wire up a switch similar to what Wrangler4xeFans did.
I might still try and work out some kind of remote relay.
Solidremote 12V - 24V Secure... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JGDV8UM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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