If I was picking an oil, I'd be more concerned about picking an oil that was as resistant to viscosity break down with fuel dilution than anything else.
This is a fair point and one that I've never had to consider before as this is also my first PHEV - although is there any oil that specifically is designed to withstand the fuel-ingress and burn-off cycle that's seen with them? There may be, I just don't knowIf I was picking an oil, I'd be more concerned about picking an oil that was as resistant to viscosity break down with fuel dilution than anything else.
Thanks for this - I'll spend some more time reading but it looks like at first glance, the idea of going to a heavier weight oil (up to 5W-40 from 5W-30) will be beneficial although for a different reason than I'm used to. It looks like the heavier weight will provide some degree of a 'safety net' from the reduced viscocity resulting from fuel dilution.There's some back on forth on that topic
Best oil for handling 1-3% fuel dilution
Thoughts on best general type of oil for handling expected 1-3% fuel dilution for a gas engine? Dino, synthetic, pao, ester? Does add pack matter? For expected fuel dilution, see link: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr..._Ya#Post4520553bobistheoilguy.com
Yeah true, I noticed a few mentions of the questionable validity of Blackstone's method of calculation for fuel dilution versus others. While I feel like I've had reasonable accuracy with Blackstone over the last 2 years worth of analysis on my M6, what I may do is send out two or maybe even three samples out to different labs to see how well they corroborate one another so I can have a clearer picture of what the real story looks like inside the engineIt might also be interesting to have an analysis performed by one of the other labs that measures fuel dilution differently. I have seen lots of discussion as to the validity of extrapolating the fuel dilution from the viscosity.
Thank you for your insight and perspective. Wouldn't soot/residue on intake valves be more of a fuel quality and burn versus oil weight? You do bring up a good point regarding warranty though, and I have heard great things about Motul's products.If you care about warranty stick with 5W-30. Powertrain engineers designed the oil passages, bearing clearances and cooling systems assuming a 5W-30 for use in a habitable climate environment. Contrary to conventional wisdom, "thicker" oil does not directly mean better lubrication. The typical engine cycles through its entire oil reservoir several times per minute; that's engineered lube and heat transfer. A thicker oil might affect the flow rate...enough to matter or not long term is the question. On my Hemi, a thicker oil would cause temporary ops failure of it's cylinder deactivation.
I use the Penzoil Platinum synthetic with its Chrysler Spec rating and run the 5W-20 on my Hemi and 5W-30 on the 4xe. At 10,000 miles on the 4xe there's still no soot buildup on the intake valves (scoped them). On the WK2 Hemi Grand Cherokee pushing 100,000 miles the valvetrain looks like brand new. If warranty wasn't a concern, I'd probably run Motul synthetic (ran that in Audis and custom 800hp+ big blocks).
I wouldn't classify my driving style / habits to be severe, I simply want to be selecting the best possible oil to preserve the internals as well as possible. In my M6, that means running a slightly heavier oil to preserve rod bearing life, and it sounds like the ICE in these PHEV are fairly tricky although for different reasons due to fuel dilution. As I mentioned, I would by default be aiming for a more frequent oil change interval at every 5,000miI would use the highest-quality oil in the recommended weight, and change more often, if driving style or habits are severe.
The above poster touched on a few of the criteria for a given oil weight. There are many, many more.
Thanks, yes with the Liqui Moly Molygen 5W-40 I use in my M6, I always get a TBN as well to understand how much of the additive package is remaining and at 5,000mi intervals in that car, a healthy level of the additives is always still present. My hope is that with half the cylinders and less than half the torque/power under the same interval with the 4xe that it will be a similar story, even with some fuel dilution. But this will be a learning process for me and comparing the two is not an apples to apples thingThe analysis will help inform for the need to change more or less frequently, based on the remaining additive package and the physical properties of the oil itself.
In a previously-owned turbocharged SUV, Blackstone suggested I extend my oil change interval by ~30%, and I did so with no apparent added wear. This blunted the pain of the $220 synthetic changes slightly.
No problem. The soot/residue is prevalent on direct injection engines and can be a real problem if people use bad gas and/or the wrong oil type and/or extend oil change intervals too far apart. On port injection engines (the Hemi, the 3.6, for example), the fuel mix flows over the intake valves and helps keep them clean. Knowing this is a problem long term on direct injection systems, some direct injection engines now have supplemental port injection to keep the valves clean (the new Bronco, I believe, is one of them). People have used catch cans to mitigate the EGR oil soot buildup on intake valves by culling the oil from the EGR return with good results but the Jeep 2.0T doesn't seem to benefit.Thank you for your insight and perspective. Wouldn't soot/residue on intake valves be more of a fuel quality and burn versus oil weight?...
Thanks again for your insight here -- I'm hoping my religious use of 93 octane (yes I know I don't need to, but I do it anyways) will aid even further in mitigating soot buildup on the intake valves or gunking up injectors due to the added detergents and fuller/cleaner burnNo problem. The soot/residue is prevalent on direct injection engines and can be a real problem if people use bad gas and/or the wrong oil type and/or extend oil change intervals too far apart. On port injection engines (the Hemi, the 3.6, for example), the fuel mix flows over the intake valves and helps keep them clean. Knowing this is a problem long term on direct injection systems, some direct injection engines now have supplemental port injection to keep the valves clean (the new Bronco, I believe, is one of them). People have used catch cans to mitigate the EGR oil soot buildup on intake valves by culling the oil from the EGR return with good results but the Jeep 2.0T doesn't seem to benefit.
In the case of the Wrangler 2.0T, for some reason this engine has not shown a tendency to develop much intake valve buildup; I've read about some people adding catch cans and caught almost no oil; I have only peripheral knowledge of this tidbit and cannot verify the validity to say it applies to ALL the 2.0T engines. In my engine-building-head, I think if you run the 2.0T at full operating temps for a while (20min?) and avoid idling as much as possible after that each time you drive it, that should reduce the chance of soot buildup on the intakes. An "Italian tune up" on a regular basis when entering highway ramps (after fully warmed up) is good, too.
No problem running 93...you'll get a little bump in HP too. On that note, mix your fill-ups among different brands to get a mix of their custom cleaning additives. Shell one week, Mobil the next, Exxon, BP/Amoco, Costco, etc. and only from stations with high volume but NEVER the same time a refueling truck is present (they kick up sediment when refilling tanks). That's my OCD and I don't recall but a few times of ever having a "bad fuel" issue in any of my vehicles.Thanks again for your insight here -- I'm hoping my religious use of 93 octane (yes I know I don't need to, but I do it anyways) will aid even further in mitigating soot buildup on the intake valves or gunking up injectors due to the added detergents and fuller/cleaner burn
Unfortunately I usually only can find BP and the occasional Mobil that sells 93 in the area - the Shell stations here usually only carry 91 and Costco 92. I typically cycle between Mobil and BP though at the stations in the 'wealthier' parts of town to check the box on high volume. Never thought about the fuel truck scenario but it's a good observation and one I'll add to my OCD tool beltNo problem running 93...you'll get a little bump in HP too. On that note, mix your fill-ups among different brands to get a mix of their custom cleaning additives. Shell one week, Mobil the next, Exxon, BP/Amoco, Costco, etc. and only from stations with high volume but NEVER the same time a refueling truck is present (they kick up sediment when refilling tanks). That's my OCD and I don't recall but a few times of ever having a "bad fuel" issue in any of my vehicles.