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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Thanks for the informative reply. I'll be ordering the Hotheads for mine after it arrives.
My tip for installation is to remove the hardtop beforehand. You will need to prep the hardtop by sanding it down and if you leave it on, you will get micro particles everywhere! So much cleaner to do with the top removed. I just crawled underneath it and went to work.
 

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My tip for installation is to remove the hardtop beforehand. You will need to prep the hardtop by sanding it down and if you leave it on, you will get micro particles everywhere! So much cleaner to do with the top removed. I just crawled underneath it and went to work.
I installed my Hotheads headliners without removing the hardtop. I didn't want to bother with sanding and all the fiberglass dust it would create, so I just used acetone on the underside of the hardtop before installing the Sound Assassin strips and the headliner. It's been on for over 2 weeks now and everything is holding up. I did pick a warm 85F day to install the headliner, that may have helped with adhesion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I installed my Hotheads headliners without removing the hardtop. I didn't want to bother with sanding and all the fiberglass dust it would create, so I just used acetone on the underside of the hardtop before installing the Sound Assassin strips and the headliner. It's been on for over 2 weeks now and everything is holding up. I did pick a warm 85F day to install the headliner, that may have helped with adhesion.
I personally think that the sanding is overkill, and it will likely hold up just fine. I just had the top off already and didn't want to be wrong, so I did it anyway. At 85F, I'm sure it was sticky enough for adhesion.
 

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Nice build.
I had the mopar factory headliners, the Jeep was delivered with them. I was not very happy with the fact the mopar one does not have any sound insulation. So i got something similar with sound assassin, applied them without sanding, got them for 5 months now, so far so good, they are holding up fine.
The sound proofing makes a huge difference. Is not a land rover, but the wind noise is lower on the highway for sure.
Since I got it separately, I had enough material for the floor as well, it is an easy job I recommend, it will help with the road noise from the off-road tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Nice build.
I had the mopar factory headliners, the Jeep was delivered with them. I was not very happy with the fact the mopar one does not have any sound insulation. So i got something similar with sound assassin, applied them without sanding, got them for 5 months now, so far so good, they are holding up fine.
The sound proofing makes a huge difference. Is not a land rover, but the wind noise is lower on the highway for sure.
Since I got it separately, I had enough material for the floor as well, it is an easy job I recommend, it will help with the road noise from the off-road tires.
I might get the sound assassin kit for the floor but as of now, the KO2s are doing a great job staying quiet on the road. I’m going to look into sealing up the hardtop better to keep the wind noise in the gaps at a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
So it's finally done. The lift is on and the winch is installed. It's been a long time coming and I'm sorry that I don't have great pictures, but I haven't been able to get the rig out in the wild for some good shots in action.

I added on the Rockslide Engineering Gen 3 Step Sliders and I absolutely love them. I have to wear a suit for work and I can only imagine how many pants I'd tear, getting in and out of this.

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I put in the Clayton Offroad Overland Plus 2.5" lift. I love it because it isn't a huge lift. It barely comes in at 2.5", actual lift, maybe even slightly under, but that's with all the added weight. I was debating the Metal Cloak lift, which I hear is awesome, but I have heard that the 2.5" nets more like 3.5" and the wife would have killed me if I had gotten it any higher. I barely got her to agree to my getting 37's and they are KO2's, which run small.

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The height of the jeep now runs at 43 1/2" from the wheel center line to the underside of the fender flares. Not too high, but just right.

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Along with the lift, I added in a Warn Evo 10s along with a Factor 55 Flatlink E with rope guard. I had the fairlead and the rope guard powder coated to match the 4xe blue. For those that want the correct formula, it's Tropical Blue (PMB6792) with Tropical Blue Step 2 (PMB6793) over coat. It isn't metallic, but it matches the color spot on. The 4xe Blue Warn stickers were courtesy of Pixel Decals. I may have a new set made, though, with a grey trim, instead of black, to give it separation from the black plastic on the winch.

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For Fathers Day, my nephew bought me some skid plates for my rear LCA's and Differential Covers for the Jeep. I prepared them by painting them to match the 4xe blue. Here they are in place.

From the rear

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And the front

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I also added in the Fox TS Steering Stabilizer. I honestly think that the Jeep handled very well before I installed this, but I can definitely notice that the steering tightened up just a bit afterwards and made it feel more connected. I almost went with the Fox ATS, but in the end, it was more money, I didn't like the red color accents, and I know myself well enough to know that I'd never use the adjustability. Rather than crawl under the jeep, I'd set it in the middle and leave it there forever. I accidentally bought the wrong size Steering Stabilizer relocation bracket, so that's going to be coming soon.

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I also added in the Fox 2.0 Performance Shocks, which are fine. I'm torn on them a bit, because they do run soft, which is nice for a plush ride, but I'm wondering if I would have preferred a slightly firmer ride. I may end up upgrading them to the Falcon 3.3 shocks. The Fox 2.5's are great, but as stupid as it sounds, the Falcons match the Jeep better since they are black and grey, while the Fox has the red accents, like the ATS Stabilizer that I didn't want. The Falcons are adjustable too, and while I may be too lazy to get under the jeep to adjust a stabilizer, I think I might be more inclined to just reach into the wheel well.

After some time, I'll update on my overall impression of the upgrades, but for now, I'm loving it. I won't go so far as to say it drives better than stock, but I will say it drives better in some ways and worse in others. As time goes by, I'll be able to articulate that more precisely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Once again you KILLED it!! You should hang up the suits and customize for a living. You got an eye...
Aww shucks! I still want to add in some lights, fender liners, throw away the work I put in for the XR Fender Flares by adding on a fender chop kit, rock lights, more skids, tailgate table, FAD and Oil Pan skid and by then, I'm sure I'll have a million more things I'll want.... JEEP: Just Empty Every Pocket.
 

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Aww shucks! I still want to add in some lights, fender liners, throw away the work I put in for the XR Fender Flares by adding on a fender chop kit, rock lights, more skids, tailgate table, FAD and Oil Pan skid and by then, I'm sure I'll have a million more things I'll want.... JEEP: Just Empty Every Pocket.
Looks great.
Maybe is time to take a break with the mods, take some days off with the money saved and enjoy the outdoors, since now you are ready to do some serious off-roading :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Hey Storm Cloud. The Oracle reverse lights in the bumper. Worth the install, or look at other options. And I did read that you used the the harness instead of the T-taps. Thanks
I think it's definitely worth the trouble. It's a huge difference in the light output and it was a fairly easy install. The only problem area is if you have the steel bumper. The driver side just does not want to fit without grinding the hell out of it. Regardless, I would do it over again in a heartbeat.
 

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I think it's definitely worth the trouble. It's a huge difference in the light output and it was a fairly easy install. The only problem area is if you have the steel bumper. The driver side just does not want to fit without grinding the hell out of it. Regardless, I would do it over again in a heartbeat.
Thank you. I have the plastic bumpers. Will probably do the harness as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thank you. I have the plastic bumpers. Will probably do the harness as well.
With the plastic bumpers, it will likely click right in without issue. The harnesses are well worth it. They save you the hassle of splicing into both lights, and from what I've seen in videos, the passenger side is a pain. With the harness, you just attach both to the driver side and you're done. You'll spend more time planning what you're going to do than actually doing it.
 

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With the plastic bumpers, it will likely click right in without issue. The harnesses are well worth it. They save you the hassle of splicing into both lights, and from what I've seen in videos, the passenger side is a pain. With the harness, you just attach both to the driver side and you're done. You'll spend more time planning what you're going to do than actually doing it.
Thanks for all your help.. Extreme Terrain has both in stock. Quadratec doesn‘t have the harness. Or do you have a better place/price to order from.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Thanks for all your help.. Extreme Terrain has both in stock. Quadratec doesn‘t have the harness. Or do you have a better place/price to order from.?
I bought mine direct from Oracle Lights here but the pricing may be better elsewhere. I think they were having a sale at the time. You might want to wait to see if there are any Black Friday sales.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Damn it’s cold. By Southern California standards, at least. I woke up and actually had a thin layer of ice on my windshield so I decided to warm up my car with the defroster before I went to work. By the time I was ready to go, the inside of the Jeep was steaming, but the windshield was only defrosted in the middle.

I’m not sure how many people have read about the defroster distributing heat unevenly, but if you look at the vents, they go all across the top of the dash, but the air only seems to blow out of the middle and the outsides barely blow at all.

I read about a clever workaround on these forums and decided to give it a try.

I ordered 5/8” square tubing plug caps off of amazon.

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I inserted them into some of the vent holes in the middle to block the airflow, while leaving the outsides open.

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I got to use the heater this morning again and they did a pretty good job at redirecting the flow from the center and forcing more to the outskirts. I will probably add about 3-4 more on each side to improve the performance, but it actually turned out to be a pretty good hack.
 
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